Copenhagen City Break: Hygge at the Axel Guldsmeden, Vesterbro

Updated: May 1, 2019


While planning my city break to Copenhagen, I read a Guardian article about Vesterbro. This once no-go district of Copenhagen was now chocka with all the amenities of hipster heaven. Charming eateries, designer boutiques and courtyard bars make Vesterbro the place to be. Though not a hipster, Vesterbro was the place for me because I am so cutting edge.

Vesterbro is also very central for sightseeing. From Vesterbrograde 3, Tivoli Gardens and the city centre is to the right, the zoo, park and Carlsberg Brewery to the left. Long walks to all, but the sights are very easy to find.

Axel Guldsmeden

I booked a two night stay at the eco-hotel Axel Guldsmeden, Colbjornsensgrade 14. The Axel, part of the Guldsmeden hotel group, has 212 rooms with four penthouse suites. They have a funky lounge, courtyard bar and the Cafe Du Nord restaurant. They also have an exceedingly slow elevator lift wallpapered in deer skin.

The hotel is sustainability-oriented and pet friendly (except for those elevator deer). My room was a small double, which must be Danish for small room with a double bed. The iddy-bitty bathroom had a teeny tiny sink, which was quite cool. The shower, though small with a detachable head that once fell on my foot, had good pressure and temperature.

The full length mirror in the hall passage was a delight! I have never looked so thin and healthy. The weight was flying off my body due to all the walking and high air quality of Denmark.

Alas, this facade shattered with every attempt to look out the window. To reach the window, one had to either jump over the bed or squeeze between it and the wall. Navigating my ample behind around the bed activated the well-meaning, decorative conch shell macramé that hung on the bedposts. I've not heard such 'beachy' clanging since my youngest fell asleep face first into discarded crustacean legs at Joe's Crab Shack.

The room amenities included all natural products, TV, hairdryer and kettle. Delicious craft soda was available from the small mini bar and gone within minutes of my arrival.

Axel Guldsmeden has a small gym and a spa. The Spa, Balinese-inspired, includes a sauna, cold tub and jacuzzi and steam bath with complementary essential oils. The costs 345 DKK for your stay duration. But beware: in Scandinavia, spa means relaxing in hot water and there were no treatments available for me to enjoy/review. Only a hot tub that I had no desire to get naked in.

Cute place, great location.

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About Us


Fearing the empty nest? Don't! Since my children have flown the coup, I have had time to refocus on my passions of travel, art, and writing.  This little blog is a handy tool that helps me share what I have learned with others.


I grew up in the States, but have lived a large chunk of my adult life in the UK. I now split my time between London and South Africa as well as chasing the sun around the world. 


 When my nest emptied, I began to plan my trips according to my own schedule, indulging in going solo. Once one gets used to traveling solo, it can be a very freeing experience. I seek out interesting, informative and unique experiences, and proffer advice with my network of readers.  I also have a lot of fun!


 Spa retreats and personal growth travel are core to what I do.  If there was a master's degree in the art of booking massages, I would be a scholarship student! I also plan to conquer Europe one city break at a time and with all that effort, I need as many beach holidays as possible. 


So please enjoy reading my tales of travel. I hope you are encouraged to get on that plane and perhaps have a few giggles along the way.


When my large family was quite young, we lived in several international postings. In an age before Google Translate,  I negotiated the grocery stores of foreign countries in search of tasty ingredients. I soon became an expert at discerning information from food labels and also learned to cook healthy, quick meals from local sources. 


From this experience, I became quite the foodie, even before 'foodie' was a word. And now as an empty-nester and devotee of food travel networks, I  interpret those old recipes into smaller, even tastier versions. 


Being an editor and food/wine travel columnist,  I travel the world sampling indigenous recipes which I share on Old Bag on a Plane. I also love wine!


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