Helsinki is an ideal European vacation destination for a short trip. With a direct flight on Finnair from London Heathrow taking just under 3 hours, it’s an easy getaway. The city offers a variety of centrally located hotels, making it convenient for travelers to explore on foot and experience all that Helsinki has to offer. Helsinki's highlights include its public saunas, numerous museums, and excellent shopping. Fancy a Moomin? You'll find plenty of shops offering souvenirs from Tove Jansson’s beloved children's books. Whether you're stopping over before heading to the wonders of Lapland or enjoying a mini-break, Helsinki is a fantastic destination on its own.
Travelling solo since the, I know no one wants to hear the word, pandemic, has presented me with new challenges. Not travelling as often as I used to has made me feel less confident. My eyesight is not as sharp as it once was, and, to be cliched, my get up and go got up and went. To where, I do not know.
With no travel confidence and all sorts of brain fog setting in, is it any wonder that the trip I planned to Helsinki, Finland, in September 2023 for the following February, then postponed until September 2024, went forgotten about for most of this year? I did no extra planning for this trip, did not buy a guidebook, nor consulted my favourite website, Atlas Obscura, for weird things to do. I even forgot to book my aeroplane seat assignment. The night before my flight, I threw a swimsuit, towel and a few bits and pieces into my carry-on and booked a taxi for far too early.
I once wandered through travel without a second thought, but those days are gone. I've scaled the peak of the "One day I'll go" mountain, only to find myself racing down the slope of "Go now before your knees give out."
Now, I travel with purpose, and this trip to Helsinki was to reclaim my solo travel confidence and check the remaining Nordic country off of my to-go list in my quest to conquer all of Europe, Viking style.
Here are a few simple things to consider before travelling to Helsinki:
Older people travelling in Europe should probably refrain from wearing bell bottoms. The pavements are uneven, and slippery cobblestones will make matters worse if you are insecure about balance. I single out older people here because it looks much worse when we fall over. Either you will be ignored and lay dangerously in the street because older women are invisible, or crowds will come running, fearing you have broken a hip. Anyway, this is an embarrassment easily avoided by bootlegs or straight-cut trousers.
Helsinki is a very walkable city. It is not very large, and traversing the hills is easy. However, the roads crisscross with tracks for the Helsinki Tram. The tram network is a key part of the city's public transportation system and is very efficient. I did not use it because I am not interested in learning new things and would ultimately prefer to walk.
There are pedestrian crossing lights at most corners, and most pedestrians, cyclists and scooterists adhere to the red light, green light system. Driving in Helsinki is on the right-hand side, so look both ways when crossing the street.
Please remember that cycle lanes are frequently on the sidewalks rather than the streets, demarcated with painted lines and symbols. Stick to the pedestrian lanes so as not to be run over by a food delivery person who is technically on a bike but is really on a scooter.
Finland uses the Euro and is largely cashless. There is no need to find an ATM or even carry a wallet. Most places have contactless payment and I found using my phone sufficient.
Doors, for the most part, open outward. I also found them to be pretty flipping heavy.
English is frequently spoken, but try to learn polite words. Hello is HEI (hey), thank you is KIITOS (key-toes), and please is OLE HIVÄ (ole-hoova).
Coffee is a big part of life in Finland. If you order a traditional brew in a restaurant, you will find your cup refilled until you ask for it not to be. At the many coffee shops around the country, ordering a speciality coffee at the counter works just like it does anywhere else.
Few people walk around Helsinki with to-go cups or eat on the go. So, while you're on holiday or enjoying a short city break, why not pause, sit down, savour the aroma of your coffee, and enjoy it in the café instead of opting for take-out?
One must overcome fears of wearing a bathing costume publicly because a sauna in Finland is an absolute must. Helsinki is renowned for its vibrant sauna culture, offering a unique experience that combines relaxation, tradition, and community.
Though precariously close to St. Petersburg, Russia, Finland has not been invaded since 1917.
Sweden ruled the country until 1809, when Finland was ceded to Russia and became an autonomous region known as the Grand Duchy of Finland. In 1917, Finland declared independence, leading to border conflicts and wars with Russia and the Soviet Union. During World War II, Finland initially aligned with Germany due to ongoing tensions with the USSR, although the Holocaust was not part of Finland's policy. Later in the war, Finland shifted its allegiance to the Allied forces. Finland joined the European Union in 1995, adopting the Euro in 2002. After Russia invaded Ukraine in 2022, Finland officially joined NATO in 2023.
During the late 17th century, Helsinki, a wooden city, suffered from multiple fires. The plague of 1710 killed most of the city's population, and when the Russians captured Helsinki in the Great Northern War in 1713, the retreating Swedish army set fire, again, to most of the city. After establishing the Grand Duchy of Finland, the city began to expand. However, due to its firey history, Helsinki lacks a traditional European 'old town.' Instead, much of its 19th-century architecture, often in the neo-classical style, was designed to resemble St. Petersburg.
Enough history:
At first glance, Helsinki does not offer much at street level. The city lacks charming, winding streets or hidden alleys filled with stories of murder, espionage, and intrigue. You won't find postcard-perfect pastel townhouses, medieval castles, centuries-old churches in Helsinki, or a single palace in the Scandinavian Peninsula's third-largest city. However, you can fully appreciate the beauty of Helsinki from the deck of a tourist excursion boat as it sails around the islands.
330 islands surround Helsinki, many of which can be reached by ferry. These islands serve various purposes, including recreation, wildlife habitats, and supporting the city's housing expansion.
Sweden built the Suomenlinna Fortress in 1748 as a defence against Russian aggression. It encompasses the entire island and is now a popular tourist destination of historic significance. Korkeasaari Island is home to the Helsinki Zoo. The zoo was established in 1889 and serves various animals from different climates.
Several companies operate tours from South Harbour, providing a variety of options.
I found the 90-minute excursion offered by Royal Line to be perfect—not too long, with interesting commentary in Finnish and then in English.
While many of the recommended tourist attractions are on Helsinki's islands, I was more than content to admire them from a distance rather than plan excursions to each island.
While at the South Harbour:
The South Harbour itself is one of Helsinki's major attractions. Here, you will find the Kauppatori Market Square, which offers crafts, souvenirs and a lot of fried fish and reindeer sausage.
On the first Friday of each month, the market hosts an antique American car show, welcoming anyone with a vintage car or an interest in vintage cars to join in. The square kicks off the herring market in early October with much excitement and celebration.
Vanha Kauppahalli opened in 1889 and is a market hall located at South Harbour. This charming building is the oldest market hall in Helsinki and offers a variety of food and snacks for locals and tourists. The interior features wooden kiosk stalls, often providing small seating areas, making it convenient for visitors to enjoy the delicious-smelling soups many shops sell.
A sauna is one of Finland's most important activities and a must-do for any trip to Helsinki. Most hotels in the city offer some sauna experience, some even in individual hotel rooms. If you're not so fortunate, there are several public options available. Public bathing can be quite an adventure, especially for those utterly uninterested in wearing a swimsuit around strangers in the cold.
Located next to the Market Square is the Alas Sea Pool. Here, you will find an outdoor heated lap pool, splash pool and a sea pool, floating saunas, men's ladies, and mixed with showers and changing rooms. Inside is a further communal sauna, more changing rooms, a coffee shop and a restaurant. I found the website language for buying tickets challenging, but I learned that the sauna is open from 6:30-21:00 Monday through Friday and 8:00-21:00 on the weekends. The prices change for Friday evenings and weekends, which caused my confusion. You can rent towels and wearing swimsuits is mandatory. A recommended stay is 2-3 hours, but I was more than content staying 90 minutes, plus a lovely coffee afterwards. The Löyly Sauna is another popular public sauna in Helsinki. It features a wood and a smoke sauna and offers bathing in the Baltic Sea. BBBRRR!
Finally, Johannes Church perches on a hill behind the Alas Sea Pool. Finished in 1891, St John's Church is a Lutheran church designed by the Swedish architect Adolf Melander in the Gothic Revival style. It is the largest church in Finland in terms of seating capacity.
A few more religious buildings of interest:
A few blocks away and overlooking the
South Harbour is Senate Square, featuring one of the city's most iconic landmarks, the Helsinki Cathedral. Designed by Carl Ludvig Engel and built
between 1830 and 1852, this Lutheran church, distinguished by its white neoclassical architecture and green domes, was initially named St. Nicholas Church in honour of the Russian Tsar Nicholas I.
The Temppeliaukio Church is an active Lutheran church in the Töölö neighbourhood of Helsinki. It may look like an archaeological site, but it was designed and built by architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, and opened in 1969. Carved from solid rock and topped with a copper dome, the church attracts over 500,000 visitors yearly. At its centre is a pipe organ featuring 43 stops and 3,001 pipes, with its sound enhanced by the church's exceptional acoustics.
The Kamppi Chapel is near Helsinki Central Station on Narinkka Square, in the Kamppi neighbourhood. Also known as the "Chapel of Silence," it is designed to provide a tranquil space amidst one of the city's busiest areas. The chapel, constructed as a part of the World Design Capital program in 2012, was designed by architects Kimmo Lintula, Niko Sirola and Mikko Summanen and won the International Architecture Awards in 2010. It receives over 300,000 visitors yearly.
The art scene:
Helsinki's art scene is dynamic and diverse, blending traditional Finnish influences with contemporary trends. The city has various art galleries, museums, and public art installations that showcase everything from classical works to avant-garde creations. Some internet search sites claim that entry to the museums is free. However, most of them charge a 20-22 Euro entry fee. Key highlights include:
Part of the Finnish National Gallery, Ateneum houses the country's most extensive collection of classical art, featuring works by Finnish masters like Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Albert Edelfelt, alongside European artists.
Kiasma is the heart of contemporary art in Helsinki, focusing on modern Finnish and international artists. Its ever-changing exhibitions make it a must-visit for those interested in cutting-edge art.
A current exhibition
Located beneath the iconic Lasipalatsi building, Amos Rex combines history with modernity. Its underground exhibition space showcases contemporary art, multimedia installations, and experimental pieces. Amos Rex was closed when I visited, but the exterior of the building, which its giant green sculpture, was fun enough.
Public Art
Helsinki's public spaces are dotted with sculptures, murals, and street art. The city is known for its open-air installations, such as the Sibelius Monument and the whimsical works in Esplanadi Park.
The Design District in Helsinki blends art with functionality, featuring galleries, studios, and shops dedicated to Finnish design and crafts. It's a creative hub for artists, designers, and art lovers alike. The Design Museum and Helsinki's Architecture Museum are in the Design District.
This international contemporary art event brings works from global artists to Helsinki's Vallisaari Island. It highlights the city's connection to nature and fosters collaboration between artists and the environment.
Helsinki's Oodi Library, while not an art gallery, is still a museum housed in a magnificent building. Oodi was designed by ALA Architects, who won the open international architecture competition for the Central Library in 2013. The library is a contemporary structure made from wood, steel and glass. It is energy efficient and a great representative of Finnish architecture.
Oodi is a living meeting place at Kansalaistori Square and is one of 38 branches of Helsinki City Library. Oodi complements the cultural and media hub formed by the Helsinki Music Centre, Finlandia Hall, Sanoma House and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma. The library is a non-commercial, urban public space open to all.
Many visitors head to Finland to frolic with reindeer under the Northern Lights in Lapland. Given that Finland is a country of outdoor enthusiasts, it's no surprise that many tourists also flock to the ski slopes, hiking trails, and frozen rivers and lakes for ice skating. However, if you're short on time and looking for a city break, Helsinki is the perfect destination. The city offers plenty of activities, including shops, saunas, museums, restaurants, and, most notably, a vibrant heavy metal scene. Banging heads is serious business in Finland and if you are into some serious shredding, check out On the Rocks, the Tavastia Club and the Base Bar.
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